Anne's blog travel 06-07

Sunday December 31st 2006 – Last day of the year…

This morning I sit on my balcony pouring myself green tea and notice that the Thai man who was sweeping the leaves has stopped and is sitting or squatting and just watching me from his vantage point near the villa next door. I haven’t looked at him directly but I’ve seen him and he knows that I’ve seen him and yet he stays there. And I notice there is gentleness in these people, a total absence of intrusion in the way they are. I feel no threat and no discomfort whatsoever and I just continue doing what I’m doing. It’s a bit like he’s having a break and just looking in my direction or perhaps there is a bit of curiosity but that’s it.

And then later in the fitness centre of the resort, I start doing my exercises while no one is present. But, soon one of the Thai man who works in the fitness centre shows up. Last time I came two days ago, he sensed when I might need help and was there before I could even fathom asking for it. I have trained on my own in gyms forever and I never think I need help and so the first time he comes to help me it almost bothers me. I speak no words to him but he sees what I’m doing and is there to help with the weights and spot me when I bench press or shoulder press. And when he sees he might not be of help anymore he disappears. So this time he shows up again and says hello. “What’s your name?” I ask. “Bao” he replies. And so this time we talk. His eyes light up when I tell him I was in Doha working at the Asian Games. There is no jumping up and down- this is a culture of relative calmness- but he tells me he used to wrestle competitively and he watched the Games everyday or as much as he could. He is of small stature- most Thais are- so I can’t imagine him wrestling but again this is a preconception. And again he is there whenever he can help and disappears whenever I cannot be assisted. It’s easy to grow fond of these people and their ways.

The day before yesterday, going through my papers, I fall on the email from Ahmed (my Iraqi friend) which I transcribed in my blog. And I realize I never replied to it and left Doha without giving him my contacts. And so I email him. “It’s Anne from the Work room…Remember?” I start and then I tell him about my experience in Doha and how I’ll never forget it either. I wish him Happy New year although I say it may not mean anything to you but Happy Eid in any case. I wish him all the best for the heart operation and ask him when it is and leave him on that.
The reply comes yesterday and makes me smile from ear to ear at the internet café. It is just so “him”. He sends photos too so I’ll include one or two (in the middle on both photos):

"From Doha with Love"
Beautiful Anne
How can I not know you? And why do you think that the new year will not mean anything for me? Iraq has lots of Iraqi Christians and we were used all our life to celebrate Christmas & New Year with them. This is one of the good things in Saddam Hussain. He encourage Christian celebrations.
Anyway, in case you still don't know much about your Iraqi friend, here is some details about me:
I have not been home for almost 12 years. My parents, brother & sister are still surviving in Iraq (the other sister is in Germany ).
I am so sorry for what's going on. Iraq is the land of the great 2 rivers & the oldest civilization on earth (Mesopotamia/Babylon). It is also the wealthiest country in the world: oil, minerals, uranium, rivers, fertile soil, agriculture, unique geography, rich civilization, well-educated people...name what you like. And if the wealth was distributed fairly on the people, we will be the richest. I mean in the good old days (70's) the simplest school teacher can afford to spend a 3-month vacation in Europe , with the family.

I am registered as an Arabic man from a Muslim culture but I am not religious. After 40 years of being rooted in this society, I can confess that it is not easy to cope, at all. Too much restrictions, too much complications, to much censorship, too much suffocation. I’m a free spirited man.

It is not easy to cope even with the mentality of our women! Where is the freedom of affection & intimacy? That's why I promised myself never to marry an Arabic/Muslim woman again. I tried it once and I've had enough. I want to have kids and I want them to be enlightened by their “western” mom’s culture & have their freedom to choose their paths when they grow up. I will never have them being narrow minded by some strict regulations.

I am a son of an ex-diplomat. We have visited a lot of places, I studied in Iraqi schools & in American schools (in Sri Lanka), mixed with different people and understood their cultures, and I have done a good job on educating myself & being wise in judging good things from bad things. I may like some aspects from your culture, and may not like some. Same with my culture.

I am a very romantic man from the old school. I still believe that love can move mountains, and that if I found my woman/soulmate, no age, religion, distance, culture or beliefs will stand in my way as long as love is the motive. I will have her run to me wherever I am, or I’d run to her wherever she is. Doesn’t make any difference with me. I am used to adopting to new environments, appreciate what I was afforded, and never fuss. At least. this is the discipline I learned from my tough years in military training.

I love the ocean, green areas, nature, animals. I am crazy about Australia & NZ (from photos I've seen), but lately friends showed me photos of SA & it seemed like an amazing country. I instantly fell in love with Cape Town . Don’t know why!

Oh Anne...just put me with my woman/soulmate in a small wooden hut/cottage facing the ocean (in Rio ), with a small garden, a dog, palm trees, and a hammock…Wow! I bet you I can die old & smiling.......meanwhile.......my operation is on 10th Jan.

Thank you so much for your lovely words and for being this wonderful friend in my life.

XXX
Ahmed...Your arabian knight

And when I reply today I mention Sadam’s execution and how somehow it hurt me to my core (sorry everyone I can’t believe in capital punishment) and I know it will have saddened him. I also tell him I love his honesty and always admired the fact he says it like it is and that’s how I’ll always remember him. And of course this time I wish him Happy New year and that all his dreams may be fulfilled. The answer is fast to return to me and here it is (word for word). I hesitated in transcribing this but decided I would:

Yes Anne
I am very sad, angry, furious & bitter since yesterday. They not only hanged him but they did that on the 1st day of our Eid. This is a big insult. They have no idea about the seed of hatred they have planted in us which will grow into a big tree from generation to another. The people will revenge even after years, and they will call those people "terrorists" and start to fight them...and so on. They have erased all possibility of peace or love to prevail in this world. They can never understand why an arab to use his body as a bomb when it comes to his dignity. They can never understand that if standing for your rights is called "terrorism" then the people are proud to be "terrorists".
They have fabricated a lot about him & about Iraq to brain-wash the people. We are well-educated people and we know that weapons of mass distruction, human rights for Iraqis, democracy in Iraq...etc is all bullshit & a big lie. We are certain they want only 2 things: the safety of Israel by making Iraq weak (now it's Syria's & Iran's turn to surrender), and of course the oil of Iraq (the biggest reservation in the world).
Even if Iraq had weapons of mass distruction. So what? Who was the only country that used nucular bombs on the Japs?
Even if we had no human rights. So what? Who was the only country that treated its black people in a shameful manner & had them as slave which led to a civil war between the north & south states?
Even if we had no democracy. So what? Who was the only country that had its Holywood actors, producers, directors in a black list in the 50's and were banned from entering Holywood just because the were SUSPECTED to be communists? It seems that their democracy demands republicans & democrats ONLY.
The whole world is crying for the rights of our Kurds in the north who have cut part of Iraq now to start their country "Kurdstan" while Turkey has much more Kurds who are even not allowed to use any kind of media, or even write any document using their Kurdish language!!!
These things that makes you really angry & mad; when they do these things and take you for a fool and underestimate your brains.
I know I have bored you with this. But listen mon amie...if you ever want to visit here again, you will always have a place in Doha...I have a spare bedroom and I live alone so no one will bother you.
Have fun in your travels, but there MUST be a time to settle down.
My kisses & hugs to you and to all your family. I am so glad to have known you.
I will keep you posted on the operation.
XXXAhmed

Bye for now

Friday December 29th 2006

Well, first downpour since my arrival last night and it was pretty heavy. The humidity in the air had somewhat promised rain for a while but I reasoned it wasn’t the monsoon season and that rain was unlikely. So by 9:30pm the power went down because of the weather I suppose. A call from a friend in Kuala Lumpur informs me that an earthquake in Taiwan has cut most internet connectivity in the area and the mobile phone communications has been sketchy at best. And I realize I’ve been disconnected from the world. When did this earthquake happen? On the 26th which is starting to be a date people remember in this area with the Tsunami that devastated areas of Thailand, Sri Lanka and many other countries in the area only two years ago.

No wonder connecting to the internet has been hard and slow. This morning the rain has subsided but the sky is still overcast and heavy with humidity. As I get back from my run I feel and look like I’ve taken a plunge in the sea rather than anything else. But I’m starting to get used to the feeling of running in this thick humid air now and I think I’ve finally managed to hydrate my body sufficiently to cope with the copious sweating.

I’m also adapting to the simple life here. A casual breakfast in my unit with music in the morning is lovely followed by a while in the gym or some writing on the balcony. In the afternoon I usually get on the scooter and head to Lamai or another little village in search for food. I’ll sit somewhere for a meal while reading a book or find something in the market. Yesterday I did both. I had a small meal of rice and veggies in a café but still hungry bought a whole barbecued fish with Asian greens at the market and ate it sitting there. I think both meals together cost me under US$3. One could live a long time here in Asia on very little money. The people I’ve dealt with are lovely. They smile easily and are very helpful. I stopped the other day at a Laundromat asking for information and the whole clan came to help me open the seat of the motorcycle I had just rented. Just because they could see me looking here and there at it trying to figure it out.

So out early for a run this morning I realize that I’m smiling to everyone I pass on the road. The scooters are out early on the road. And the people smile back just as readily or an arm goes up to greet me.

Bye for now

Thursday December 28th 2006

It’s a bit harder to find a place to do my emails and connect although not impossible which is why I may not connect everyday. I also feel my life is simpler and less full and perhaps less interesting to read.

I’m slowly adjusting to my new surroundings. I mean it’s a lovely place I’m staying at. I’m resting and finally used to the time difference. I’m adjusting to the weather and the food slowly. I’m not so good with spicy food so I may find it hard to eat here as most things are spicy but so be it. The peace and quiet of my abode is wonderful. I’ve started writing my diary again which I hadn’t looked at since November 3rd. It’s hard to start when there is so much to say. Where does one start when everything that has just past seems to be a blur with undefined lines? And I don’t want to forget the important stuff and yet when you don’t write as often you tend to omit things for ease of writing or because simply there is too much to write. It’s strange but writing for me has always been an exercise in assimilation rather one of relating experiences. Often I feel I haven’t quite digested something until I put it on paper. Or I can only get clear about something or how I feel when I write about it. So, for me, it’s an important exercise.

I’ll be honest I feel I’m grieving Doha in some way and I haven’t really grieved an event since Nagano almost 9 years ago. That was my first event and I had no expectations. I guess Doha was much the same. The job wasn’t so important. The experience was the focus. Both were short term events although there were others like Manchester (3months in 2002) and Rugby World Cup (just over a month in 2003) which I was just glad to leave. But it was different too as I never really connected with the people in Manchester and Rugby was in Townsville and very short lived. Manchester was such a mess and I was so exhausted from Salt Lake when I arrived that I was only too happy to leave.

But it’s a nice place to grieve. Found the markets yesterday. An amazing array of foods and smells. Managed to buy a meal in Lamai and sit for a while in this cute road side café. I’m off now to find somewhere to eat again.

Bye for now.

Tuesday December 26th 2006

Another lovely peaceful day here in what some people call paradise. It’s overcast but warm and humid. It’s winter season here and I would think the best time of the year as summer must be overly hot but one of the Thai ladies at reception tells me it’s a bit cold right now and windy. I can assure you that it isn’t either of those.

After a nice morning run where I’m trying to readapt to warmer/humid conditions and also manage to gather my bearings a bit, and a lovely shower, I rush over to the complimentary Bio something or rather analysis and Wellness consultation which has been booked for me at 10am. The first is an assessment of my vital statistics and somewhat of a test to measure my overall level of health. I’m dehydrated (which I’ve felt for a while now even in Doha but severely the night of my arrival here) which shows and falsify apparently the rest of the results but overall everything seems fairly normal. The second consultation is rather an effort to sell me a package plan of treatments and whatever else. Everything here is rather expensive as one can imagine but Thailand is very cheap. I can use the facilities, the gym, do all the classes, the steam room, the plunge pools for free. Which is nice and it’s rather strange that I haven’t done a class yet. I’ve just preferred not to have a schedule yet. The location is idyllic, with a nice beach below and lovely pool areas.

So shortly after all that I stroll down the road until I come across a man who will rent me a motorbike or rather in this case a scooter. He charges me 180 Thai Baht/day (about US $5) and so I rent the scooter for a week and I’m very happy to find my freedom again. I elect to wear the helmet but most people here don’t. You see everything, kids on the back with schoolbags, dogs on the front of the scooter etc and everyone seems to be riding a scooter. As for the road rules…I’m pretty sure you make it what you want but generally it’s best to stay on the left.

So, I go and find myself a place to eat lunch. A small Thai place by the side of the road where I see no foreigners. I can’t see a menu but I ask them to make me something vegetarian and so they do. I’m happy to eat because it’s way past 12pm and the last time I sat down to eat was yesterday morning at the resort for a light breakfast. I must be the only person I know who regularly goes hungry on Xmas day.

And so the day goes riding the scooter into Lamai beach and then Chaweng to change some currency, buy some food, find a Thai sim card for my mobile phone and do a bit of internet. I get back to the resort by 4:30pm stopping to pay for the scooter on the way back as they let me go with only a day’s rent and no paperwork.

Most Thai do not speak much English at all despite there being an obvious large amount of foreign tourists here. But the usual blend of sign language usually gets one through. My first impression was that people are courteous and polite but reserved. This is a stark contrast to what I’ve been used to lately with people often talking to me and asking questions. But so it goes and perhaps I’m also a bit at fault having not quite totally embraced being here yet. Perhaps what I’m seeing is nothing more than a reflection of myself.

More exploring tomorrow.

Monday December 25th 2006

Kamalaya Resort – Koh Samui
Well, Merry Xmas because it well and truly is Xmas now. But, again there is no sign of it here. Most people in Thailand are Buddhists and somehow I’ve seen nothing to date to mark the season. Arrived last night fairly late. The plane was late leaving and therefore arriving. It’s a decent drive to the resort, probably 45 minutes from the airport. People drive on the left once again here like in Australia. In the Middle East it was on the right. I’m truly exhausted by the time I check in and unfortunately after getting to my room I have to move again because the Air Con is not working. The room I move to is lovely however with nice views of the ocean.

I’ve only ever been to Asia a few times. Mostly to Japan were I worked for the Nagano Olympics in 1998 and on a lay over once before. Of course I’ve done the layovers and transits in KL, Singapore and Taipei but I haven’t seen Asia really so this is my first taste of it.

I wake up at 9am which is late for me but then again I didn’t get to sleep before 1am. I take it easy with breakfast first then a couple of hours in the gym. I move back to the original room, a nice little villa perched amongst the trees. The shower and toilet are outside in a nice setting. I have a balcony with a sofa on it and a nice room. Kamalaya is a bit isolated but I resist the urge to get out today and source what I feel I need. Some food, some money, some clothes and of course my bearings. Seems I’ll rent a motorcycle from tomorrow so I’m a bit more mobile.

Here, there are nice pools, a steam room and plunge pool and of course the beach is just below.

I meet a nice French woman who works at the resort gallery and shop. She’s been here for 10 days only after four months in Singapore and 4 years in Shangai. So, of course we talk about our experience and what it’s like living the east. It’s then, recounting some of my experiences in Doha that I finally realize it’s over. Maybe because I feel so far from it here. Maybe because of the huge contrast from being so busy and everything being so noisy to the silence and relative emptiness of the days here. This resort has been open only about a year and it seems relatively quiet despite it being the busy season.

I think it will be good for me to be here for a bit and just let myself be.

Sunday December 24th 2006

Singapore Airport
Well, it will be nice to finally get to destination in Koh Samui. I departed Dubai an hour late around 11pm local time and arrived in Doha at the same local time but an hour later. The following flight was also delayed an hour for a total transit of three hours. I probably managed to sleep a couple of hours but no more on the 7h40 flight to Singapore. My transit is about 6 hours but only 2.5 hours to go now before my flight to Samui. I always liked Singapore airport, one of my favorites but it will be nice to leave it this time. It is a short flight possibly only an hour and a half to Samui.

Met a gentlemen from the UK who was sitting next to me on the short flight from Dubai to Doha. He's lived in the middle east for thirty years and was telling me how Doha was when he came 30 years ago. A fishing village he said. I've been told so many times that things have changed so much in the last five years that it is hard to imagine 30 years ago. He originally came to Doha for a three month contract in 1977 but loved it and told his wife they were moving there. He goes on to tell me about his years in Saudi Arabia over two stints, one of 8 years and one of about 6. Again, he has great stories. He laughes when I tell him about Josee who was making home wine there and he says everyone does it. He's been in Dubai now for 18 months. "Do you like living in Dubai?" I ask. "No, I hate it." he says. He tells me it has no history, nothing cultural, it's just another big shopping mall. He won't be leaving it soon enough and is going to Seoul in March to explore an opportunity to go there. It's rare I meet people like him who have lived abroad for so long and are so open to explore new places and continue to live this life. He must be at least 60 years old. Off to the UK for ten days over Xmas he says. Merry Xmas.

It's strange to be in Doha captive at the airport. It's a small airport and one goes around it very quickly. It's too late to try and call anyone I know there but I test my mobile phone and it still seems to work. That's good news.

Singapore is wet and overcast and 26C outside. Christmas carols and reminders abound in the airport. Maybe it is Xmas after all. It hasn't really hit me yet that I've left the Middle East. Feels like I forgot to say goodbye.

Not sure I'm ready to Thailand either.
It's Xmas Eve at Singapore Airport so Merry Xmas to you all.
Much love from me wherever you are.

Saturday 23rd December 2006 Dubai

Well, I won't say I've seen a lot of Dubai. We went to the horse races on Thursday night which was interesting. The track was beautiful and we were in the VIP lounges sipping wine and eating finger food. In the middle of this amazing track is a golf course of all things. The evening was lovely. The temperatures are milder here than in Doha were evenings and mornings were starting to be cold. We had great company in colleagues of my father who have been living here for 6 years. Also, an australian couple and others. The most interesting thing at the track is that betting is illegal so the races are for racing sake. I know there is money up for grabs but I'd say the Sheik here provides the money.

In Dubai as in Doha, photos of the ruler abound everywhere. Here it is the Sheik Hamdan Bin Rashid Al Maktoum. There it is the Emir. The currency is different but worth exactly the same as in Doha. Both the currencies are linked to the US Dollar at 3.65 Dirham or Riyals to the US dollar.

Back at the hotel we bump in to Charles and Josee, both French Canadians who are going out so we join them. Charles is a prof at the University here and has been here also for six years. Josee is a chemist and has been here for five and spent one of those years in Saudi Arabia practising there. Surprinsingly, she tells me she did enjoy her time there. She wore the Abaya which is compulsory for women. She also wore a scarf losely over her head to hide her blond hair as it was the war at the time and no one wanted to be mistaken for Americans in this area. Both Charles and Josee say that when they cannot express themself in Arabic they revert to french rather than english. It's better to be french here. Josee says that her time in Saudi was very communal. She lived with her co workers and it was more like the old university days. Alcohol is illegal in Saudi and she tells me that everyone was making their own wine from grape juice. It's funny how you miss something when it's forbidden she says. It's lovely to meet them. They both tell me I must come and live in Dubai for a while and please to come and visit.

And the world seems like a small place when you start traveling. Charles even says that he'd consider living anywhere now that he has left Canada. "Once you've left home, it's easy to continue" and it's so true. Rather I find it's hard to feel that you will stay anywhere permanently as the options are always visible and there is so much to do and see.

We end up back at the hotel at 2:30am and with an early start Friday I'm pretty tired all day. We do a bit of shopping but my heart I not into it. It takes a bit for me to feel like shopping I must admit. Dubai is like any mega city with lot's of shopping. Perhaps it's more than that. Shopping is a past time here and it's the shopping festival now. People come here to shop.

My father left this morning early with an 8am flight out. I must check out by 2pm, very soon and catch a flight to Doha just after 10pm tonight.

My time in the middle east is coming to an end. Time for a new adventure in Asia.
Bye for now

Thursday December 21st 2006 - Dubai

Yesterday there is many things to do before Shibu picks me up at Beverley Hills Towers where I've stayed since our move there on November 15th. Change some money at the bank, pack my bags, call all the other volunteers and a few colleagues before I leave. Shaza was planning on seeing me that day she tells me. She says she has a gift for me to remember her by. "I won't forget you Shaza" I tell her. She insists and because Shibu is picking me up in less than 30 minutes and she is working I say she can always give it to Kisane and I'll catch up with her in Australia. I doubt Kisane will have more room than me in her luggage but she can opt to leave it behind. I get Saad on the phone and we chat a moment. I have to call Adbulqader twice and leave the phone ringing for a while before he picks up. I know he's probably sleeping but it's 12pm and I want to say goodbye. "Come back to Doha Anne" he says in his sleepy voice. "Maa Salaama my friend and Shukran." I say.

Reg can't believe I'm leaving as he was thinking I'd be at the Rushmans diner that night but I won't be. We didn't manage diner after all that. "You have to promise to come and stay with me in Birmingham" he says. He's off to work for a yatching event there for a couple of years I believe. Kisane comes and gives me a hug. "See you in Oz" she says. I know we'll keep in contact. Lorraine comes down to the lobby to say goodbye. "Let's not make it another four years without seeing each other" I say. And she thanks me so much for taking the job and I thank her so much for asking me to come. And it's time to go before I start crying.

At the airport I find out the flight has been delayed an hour. This gives me time to have a tea and check emails at a coffee shop with wireless internet.

The decent into Dubai is spectacular at night. I rarely look out the plane window anymore but this time I'm glued to it. So many lights, so many colors. Traffic seems monstrous. This place looks huge compared to little Doha. All in all I arrive almost 90 minutes late. My father is waiting for me with a driver from the hotel. He told me on the phone before that he has a bit of a beard again. I think he thinks I may not recognise him. It's been about four years.

We have a lovely diner at a Lebanese restaurant in the hotel. The waiter, Hellani is lovely and picks food for us. There is plenty more than we need but it's just beautiful food. Hellani is Lebanese and he offers information about Dubai and places to see. "How long will you be here?" he asks. Until Saturday. He tells us he is off on Friday and would love to take us around the festival city area if we want. He slips his mobile number saying he's not allowed to do this so I grab it quickly and shove it in my pocket. These are the type of city tours I usually prefer.

Later today I gather we are going to some horse races...something apparently we must do and someone else has organised. In the meantime it's nice to take it easy.

Wedneday, December 20th 2006

Well, this is my last post from Doha. I leave today at 3:10pm for Dubai where I'll be for three nights and until late on the 23rd. I'll then fly back to Doha for three hours at the airport before I head to Singapore for 7 hours and then off to Koh Samui where I can settle my things down for about two weeks.
I went for a run along the Corniche this morning, going past the Emiri Diwan for the last time (the Palace) and running along the bay. As I run back and glance once more at the skyline of cranes which has become my home over the last weeks. Time has flown indeed.

I call Sohaila and Salwa yesterday. Bukra (tomorrow) I go to Dubai, I tell them. I'm just calling to say Maa Salaama (goodbye) and Shukran (thank you). We can't have too much of a conversation but we understand each other enough to say this and they both thank me for calling. I'll try to reach the others today before I leave.

I met Mo (Mohammed) yesterday (Saad's brother) at Starbucks in the City Centre shopping mall. Two englishmen, Andy (who has lived here 6 years) and another guy (I forget his name) on their lunch break join us for coffee before they head back to work. Mo is 30, dressed in jeans and t-shirt, handsome. We talk and walk around this huge centre and then sit down for lunch and he pays for everything. He talks candidly about life here. He was born in Kuwait where his family comes from before they moved here. Saad is born here in Qatar. He feels like the black sheep in the family, only wearing the thobe when he absolutely has to. Most of his friends are westerners. He tells me his family wants him to marry his cousin. "If they don't change their mind, I will have to do it" he says. "Hopefully she will change her mind". He tells me her cousin was quite pretty when he last saw her when they were kids but he obviously has no feelings for her.

On our walk around the centre I see Khalid (from Qpost) with his wife and stop to say hello. Khalid has once stopped me outside the MMC to say hello. But I feel there is an awkwardness there. Mo has continued to wait for me ahead. Khalid introduces his wife and I tell her we worked at the same venue. "I hear you are going to France" I tell her. To which Khalid quickly replies: "No, I'm going to France with my friends. My wife is staying home." Really? "Tell him he's a bad husband" I tell Khalid's wife and then with a smile I wish him a good trip. I catch up with Mo and he tells me that whenever he sees friends with their wives, he looks down and ignores them. This is how it's done here. "Really?". And of course I've totally put my foot in it when I assumed he was taking his wife away with him.

"I hate all this" Mo says. "Most men when they travel aren't interested at all about other cultures. They just travel for a few reasons. To get away from their wives and usually to have fun with their friends and other women."

Mo is surprisingly honest and disarmingly candid about life here. He tells me about his brothers and how they are. "When they call I know they want me to do something for them." So I joke and pretend I'm Saad: "Mo, please can you hang out with Anne for a bit and show her around." He smiles.

"Actually, I kept looking out for you. Saad described you and whenever I was having coffee here, I'd wonder if that woman or another was you. One night even at the Rydges, I approched a woman who had hair the same color as yours and asked her if she was Anne. She told me to Fuck off".

Andy comes back to pick him up at about 3pm and Mo tells me to call him later if I want to go out. He's also told me to send him my resume and he could easily find me a job here.

But last night Lorraine and I catch a cab to Jewarah's place for the celebration. We find ourselves in the company of only women but it's interesting to see them without the Abayah. I hardly recognise Maryam and Ala is so beautiful without that black thing on her head. Jewarah and her sister are just gorgeous. We sit in this living room with couches all around the walls and sip tea before we gather around a table full of beautiful food. Babaganoush, Tabouleh, humus, rice, chicken, and other food I don't know the name of. About three of four different deserts are also served. Kisane is there and also is Gerry and both Lorraine and I return to town with Kisane fairly early as it's just about impossible to call a cab out there. It's been nearly impossible to find in the first place.

I must hurry now and go and change money, pack my bags and call my volunteers. I'll update from Dubai.

Bye for now

Tuesday December 19th 2006

Well I will be leaving tomorrow with the 15:10 flight with Qatar Airways to Dubai to meet my father. I'll spend three nights there and two days with him. I'll have a whole day there on my own on the 23rd until my night flight leaving at 10pm.
Sunday I get a call from Abdulqader. He's at the Hubly Bubly sheesha parlor and asks me to come and join him and I laugh. He lets me know he wants to catch up before I go and we plan to see each other today with Saad and Mohammed (Saad's brother). Saad and Mo have tried to organise to take me down to Sealine (not sure about the spelling) to the sand dunes to ride in a sand buggy. Last night Mo calls and tells me it's off because he can't get access to the four wheel drive needed or perhaps it's the buggy. I'm not sure. "You are not to disapointed?" he asks. I laugh and say no. I'm meeting him for coffee at Starbucks at City Centre at 1pm. He asks if I want to go and see Souq Watif or other things with Saad and Abdulqader as well. We'll talk about it over coffee.

Yesterday I also get a call from Saad. "I miss you Anne" he says and we have a good chat and I realise that just a month ago neither Saad nor Abdulqader could have had a conversation with me over the phone. Now we understand each other enough to do so.

I went to the MMC party/celebration last night. I showed up at 8pm but left at 8:30pm. A number of men in Thobes are saying thank you to the volunteers who haven't been invited. They thank the Emir without whom this never could have happened...which reminds me of the full page ads in the paper congratulating the Emir on a job well done. We all laugh at this as no one is openly thanking those who actually did the job. I guess it was somehow the Emir's money but still. Kisane, Gerry and Reg are there but Lorraine has made a point not to come. I thought I'd have a chance to say goodbye to some new friends but decide to leave as the atmosphere isn't condusive to this. I manage however to see Ahmed quickly and sit next to Zuo Li and Fang Mai both from Quang Zho, China the site the next Asian Games. They came here to help us out and gather experience for their job for the next games in four years time.

On the way back I stop at Qatar Airways in city Centre. It always amazes me that things are open so late. I end up going back to my room and coming back out to Qatar Airways to revalidate my ticket. It's about 9:30pm and the office is still open. It's very much a night culture here. People have naps in the day and come out again at night.

Tonight Lorraine and I are going to a celebration at Jewel's home. It should be interesting to see her place and a traditional celebration although Jewel (Jawara) has lived in Jordan for one year (studying pre med) and then studied for 8 years at Mac Masters University in Ontario Canada. She wears the Abaya but she has been very much exposed to the western culture and only wore the Abaya in Canada in the last two years she was there.

Bye for now

Monday December18th 2006

Beautiful radiant sunny day today and the water of the gulf is turquoise as I run mid morning on the Corniche.

I packed some things to send back to Australia from the Post office in the Main Press Centre (MPC) yesterday and Ahmed comes in to have some pictures done for stamps so I jump in the photo with him and he buys me a set as well. He says he's happy to see me as he was looking for people to hand them the message he gives me. He's printed off an email because he doesn't have everyone's email...

Dear Friends
Six and half years in Qatar now, and this has been my most unique experience working with people from all colors, religions, beliefs, backgrounds and cultures. It was such an honor working with you all, and a pleasure having you as friends. I have learned a lot from you, we have laughed, shouted, got furious, shared meals, partied and discovered the beauties of this country together.

I am a richer man knowing you all, and I thank you for that.

I would like to keep in contact with you, and look forward to meeting you again, someday, somewhere. So please provide me with you personal contacts.

I might not be able to see you in the coming few days as I will be doing this heart operation, so I would like to wish you all a merry Xmas, Happy Eid, Happy New Year...etc.

Lot's of love

Ahmed (me) Hashim (my father) Saeed (my grandfather) Al-Hadithi (family name)

Even in this message I learn that the second and third names are in fact the names of the father and grandfather. I didn't know that.

We haven't set foot in the MPC today. I had lunch with Lorraine and Michelle. Michelle is flying out tonight for Canada. Lorraine will be here until Friday. I fly out thursday at this stage but am considering changing this to Wednesday as I have to move out of the hotel Wednesday and go back over to Patsy's. It's just hard to be so far out. And I'm going to Dubai for a few days to catch up with my father who I haven't seen in four years.

I'm tired right now. There are celebrations every night with the MMC party tonight at the venue. I'm sure this is an alcohol free party. Tomorrow Jawarah (Jewels) has invited me and most others from the MPC to her house for a party. She is Qatari so that will be interesting. Wednesday night is the Rushmans diner at the Rydges which I'll miss if I leave early but we'll see. And plenty more invitations to go have diner and lunches and do things and not enough time really.

I promise to try and keep updating my blog. I'm sorry if for some reason it's sporadic at times beause of lack of internet access but I'll keep trying.

Bye for now and thanks for reading.

Sunday December 17th 2006

I'm a work today only for a few hours. Some journalists still have laptops stored in their lockers and I've been trying to reach them to urge them to come and pick them up before logistics takes the lockers away. Yesterday saw a number of journalists (possibly 50-60) hang around until far too late. "It's over" I want to say :"Go Home".

Navdeep from India sent four articles by fax and Jatimder at least three and the Games are over. They have been here for a long while now those two and have been constant customers of the faxing service. I've always looked after them. They urge me to come and visit in India. Who knows. So many journalists come and shake my hand thanking me for the service we gave them. They all want to stay in contact. It's easy to say but in reality rare are the journalists who do. I'm still in contact with some from Manchester though.

It rained yesterday and again today it was raining when I ran this morning. Traffic alongside the Corniche was heavy but then again I haven't run in daylight for so long and today being Sunday is the first day of the working week.

Ala, a lovely Jordanian man who worked with the AV team, tells me how the games were long but suddenly when he was watching the closing ceremony, it hit him that it was over. "You know Anne, I was happy we made it and it was over and suddenly ..." he pauses for a few moments and I continue for him because I think I know what he's going to say: "...there is this void in your stomach like something has been ripped out." He looks at me like I just put it in words better than he could express it himself. "Yes, exactly! and going back to normal life doesn't seem at all appealing or even remotely possible." he says. I've been there before so I've been through it many times. Why do you think we keep doing these crazy events? Probably because nothing else offers this kind of experience.

Paul Matthew, the photo chef, tells me last night at the hotel coffee shop: "You know, Anne, this whole thing, it's like a woman giving birth. There is so much pain you have to go through but when you get to the Closing Ceremony, it's all forgotten and only the good times remain." I tell him how many people have said so many times during any given event: "I'll never do another one" and then by the end of the games they say: "Well, I'd only do one if..." and then you know you'll see them again down the road at another event. Never say never.

Shaza comes and see me. She has worked as a volunteer with me a few shifts here or there. "You know Anne, I feel like I've known you for a very long time and it feels incredibly sad to think you are leaving." I know too well what she is talking about. The intensity of this type of event brings people together in a way few other things can.

The Asian Games in Doha have really touched me in a surprising way. I feel that many Qataris and locals have also been changed in a deep way by the experience of the games. Doha will never quite be the same I'm certain of it.

I must finish up. My computer will be shut down here and I'm not sure where I'll write my next post from but stay tuned.

Bye for now

Saturday, December 16th 2006

Well, what a perfect finish to these games. If Qatar lost to China in the Gold medal Basketball game which finished just before 4pm, they won against Iraq in the Gold medal Soccer game which ended at about 6pm. Soccer is the important game in this country and the city and the atmosphere was abuzz with excitement. It couldn't have been scripted better than this coming into the Closing ceremony which started at Khalifa Stadium with the pre-show at 7pm.

Opening ceremonies are always a spectacle and visually stunning. Closing ceremonies are usually fun and charged with infectuous energy. The Closing Ceremony yesterday was also visually amazing but certainly with the victory of Qatar in Soccer, the energy was sensational. By closing ceremony time, everyone has done their job; the
athletes, the staff, the broadcasters and the journalists and we can all just celebrate our time here together.

Yesterday most of my volunteers brought me gifts. Young Sameera teamed up with Mahmoud to buy me a warm wrap and the card is so sweet. Entisar from Iraq brings me perfume (a wax perfume), a scarf, a necklace and a typical copper or bronze small coffee karafe. The list goes on.

I manage to get some closing ceremony tickets for Abdulqader and Saad. I've only got two but I know these two will go together and I'm so pleased to be able to give them this. Wish I could have had tickets for everyone. I did not go prefering to avoid the crowds and give them the tickets

This morning, the place is bare. We have some journalists here already but only a few but we are expecting more as we've been asked if we would be opened. There is this phenomenon though when the flame is extinguished, at every event, it's like the life has been taken away. Many journalists have already left in the night.

A couple of days ago I see Ahmed on the venue. It's about 5pm and as soon as I see my Iraqi friend I go up to him and before I can think about it I kiss him on the cheek as if this was something I could do here. It took something like that. The fact I'm worried about him and was wondering if I'd see him again, to completely make me forget that signs of affection between men and women in public are prohibited. And, really no one is looking or really cares.

It's very sad yesterday when some of my volunteers leave the venue for the last time. Sohaila (what a beautiful name pronounced so- ha- i- la), Sameera Ibrahim, Salwa, Asmaa and MD Arif; we all want to cry. Abdulqader, Saad, Ahmad, Younes, Nena and young Sameera are all supposed to be here today at some stage.

Today, we will not be so busy with journalists but still we will be sending some faxes overseas and packing up the area. I'll finish my report hopefully and with a little luck we may only come in for a few hours tomorrow. Monday we have a MMC party here since there is no games wide party organised. It's probably better like this.

Bye for now.

Friday December 15th 2006 - Last day of competition and Closing Ceremony
The photo was taken at the Equestrian Endurance Venue yesterday which is a couple of hours away.

Well I manage yesterday to get 15 of my volunteers to Q-Post which is the Postal service here on Venue. I go one by one with them to have a photo taken of each person with me and a stamp sheet printed out with the photos and a Asian Games background. This is my gift to each one of them. We also do a few group shots with 4-5 people for those who want two photos on the sheets. It's relatively cheap at 15 Riyals per sheet (About $5 Ca or Aus) but it will be a nice souvenir and all of them are just thrilled. I probably have a few more to go through today.

We are still busy in the Work room all day yesterday although I've noticed the number of faxes being sent is decreasing a little everyday. Today there are only two games of Basketball left (the bronze medal match and the gold medal match) from 11am and the football (Soccer) final at 4pm in which Qatar and Iraq are battling for the Gold Medal. This is just before the Closing Ceremony which will start around 7pm. The Football game promisses to be a spectacle and judging by the streets after the victory of Qatar in the match to get to the final, there will be massive celebration if Qatar wins or maybe even if they get Silver.

The medal tally is crazy. China has 315 medals and Qatar comes in 11th position with 30 medals. I come in this morning and Sameera Ibrahim brings me a gift or three. A small bottle of perfume (my third now), another spray bottle of Arabic perfume and an Arabic clay incense burner. She tells me to get charcoal and burn different tradionnal branches. But then Salwa arrives with some of these apparently expensive wodden branches which seem marinated or seasoned as a gift (and I know there is no way I can bring them into Australia but I can't say anything), and she gives me another two lovely Sudanese gifts (as she is from Sudan). By now I need a truck to leave this country and plan to post some things back to Australia on the 18th.

At diner last night I bump into a journalist from Sri Lanka (or possibly somewhere else) who had talked to me the previous day. I sit with him for my short diner. I can't recall his name even then but he talks to me as if he knows me very well. Tells me he's been watching me for many days before he talked to me. He was just waiting to make sure he'd be talking to the right person. The words he pronounces are detached but caring telling me what he feels about my life. And I sit there wondering why he cares to tell me this. "You're a deep and complex person." and I smile and say that he had told me the day before that I was very simple. " Yes, you are very simple in the way that you don't play any games. Your heart is very simple. You are straightforward and open and that is great." Anyway, the conversation continues for a while and I leave wondering about all those people who have made comments to me during the last month. People who have hardly known me and invited me without reserve to their homes or who have come to see me before they left to make sure we had each others contacts details.

The next few days will be hard. Haeyoung, a lovely korean woman working in Technology came yesterday to tell me that tomorrow (today)was her last day. She's a bit of a gypsy like me. "I've decided to go to Egypt she tells me for three weeks. " She tells me she has been twice before and loves it there. She lived in Sudan for three years and plans to go down to Sudan for a few days as well. Everybody calls her Rhenee but I prefer to call her Haeyoung because it's her name and she is not really a Rhenee. I haven't spent much time at all with her but I'll miss her and hope we'll cross paths again.

On my return from my run this morning just before 6am, I see Patsy at the hotel waiting for a Rushmans employee to take him to the airport. She tells me she got woken up in the middle of the night because immigration didn't want to let another employee leave the country. He's on the same visa I am (multi entry visa). Normally when you live in Qatar, you are sponsored by an employer. Everyone who lives here needs permission from their employer/sponsor to leave the country. Wives need their husbands approval as well even just to get a driver's licence. But on a multi entry visa (which is extremely hard to get) you normally should be able to travel in and out without problems. I was planning to return to Doha on the 23rd earlier to spend the afternoon/evening here rather than alone in Dubai to break up my travels. But now I worry that if I do this at that time I may never get to leave the country since Patsy will be gone by then. Shall see.

Closing Ceremony tonight...bye for now

Some photos of the rushmans team at the MPC with a few others from venues on the photo to the left. Notice the stunning uniform?

Thursday December 14th 2006

OK, today I post this picture that Kisane took of Abdulqader, Saad and me a few days ago. Abdulqader is on the left of the photo and Saad on the right. No comments on how tired and white I look and the lovely uniforms.

This morning I show up at work and Sohaila (normally written Sohyla but it's pronounced Sohaila) arrives with a bag with two wrapped gifts for me. I'm so moved and teary already and then I read the card. Sohyla doesn't talk english very much but we understand each other. She is 32 and from Iran originally and she is not married nor does she want to get married she says one day to me.

"To my best person I known in my life "Anne"
I offer you best wishes...my best regards...my sincerest compliments and I thank you for all what you did for me...
Your best friend
Sohaila Mohammed"

I open the first package and it's a beautiful Gelabeya (traditional dress) in the traditional Qatari colors too. It's bungundy with yellow gown underneath and it so well crafted and beautiful. I try it on for all to see. The other gift is a beautiful frame oval in shape and designed with lovely colored stones. It such a lovely gesture and Sameera Ibrahim translates that it's nothing compared to that Sohaila would want to give me. This comes just when I'm wondering what I can do for my volunteers...I have an idea now however.

I feel good today. I slept from 7:20pm to 4:20am and I feel totally refreshed. Only a few more days to go of these long days.

Bye for now

Wednesday, December 13th 2006

Ahmed, my Iraqi friend, stops by at the help desk last Sunday to say hi. I haven't seen him around for a few days and ask him about it. He tells me he had to be taken by ambulance the other day because he had chest pains and now is scheduled to have surgery in the next few days. However yesterday Lorraine sends this information with the briefing notes:

Ahmed from Site Management is expected to undergo open-heart surgery next month. For some reason his operation has been delayed, so if you see him in the venue smoking and eating pizza, please hit him over the head!

This man is so full of life and colorful and now I worry about him and his crazy ways.
I hope to see him again before we finish.

Yesterday, Shibu picks me up at 8:30am from work and to drive me to go and get the immunisation I want to have done for Thailand, Laos, Vietnam and Cambodia. Online they recommend Thyphoid, Hep A, Hep B, protection against Malaria, rabies, Japanese encephelitis and all the normal immunisation. I'm not too worried about Malaria as it's not the season. After asking the Venue medical people several times I'm refered to Hamad Hospital Emergency to have this done. So, as it's quiet in the work room yesterday morning and before it picks up Shibu drives me to Hamad Hospital. I'm happy there are no lines on the women's side but I can see there are massive waiting lines on the men's side. When I ask the nurse about it she tells me it's all the workers wanting sick leave. They are the ones I was refering to working in construction coming here to work long hours for almost nothing. The nurse tells me that they are all fine.

My temperature is taken, my blood pressure, my pulse. I wait and talk to a few nurses and told to wait in the room and after about 45 minutes I'm told I cannot get Immunisation at Hamad Hospital because they don't have the facilities. So they send me to Al-Dafna Polyclinic and Shibu takes me there and of course, people there explain where else we must go to have this done. This third place in a health Organisation and while I'm waiting I'm lucky to meet a westerner who tells me it took him 6 hours to find the place to get immunised but he gives me directions and rather than waiting Shibu and I are off to the fourth location. By this time I gather we'll get to that place by 10:30am and I will have saved 4 hours compared to the man who gave me directions. Of course the directions are all wrong but Shibu has contacts and before long he has found the location.

When I get there, I'm told that I'll have to go back to the third location to get malaria tablets and possibly some forms. But, the joke has lasted long enough and I won't worry about malaria. "Just give me what you have" I beg. So, I get a Thyphoid shot and the first shot for Hep B which must be followed up in a month and then six. They have nothing else. I give up on the rest. This will have to do. It's then I realise that my time here has been charmed in a way as I haven't had to deal with this type of innefficiency since I've been here but it seems very real. Little things can take a lot of time. Shibu and I manage to get back to the MPC by 11am but what a morning it has been. I've seen a bit of Doha at least.

Only a couple of competition days to go.
Bye for now

Tuesday December 12th 2006
It's starting to definately smell like the end now. Some journalist (few) are already heading back home and shuttle buses from the accommodation are going to the airport on the half hour. The majority will stay till closing ceremony but some countries (like Oman) are out of the competition now and so it's hard for reporters to continue their work. Some journalists only come to cover certain events and when these events are over, the journalists are on their way.

Friday will be the Closing Ceremony and Saturday will be the last day I have volunteers here. We will start dismantling the work room as of midday on Saturday if the room is quiet which is expected. Some of the volunteers have been working with me from day one which was November 15th. Some started a bit later but it will be strange and sad saying goodbye to all of them. Most of them don't have email addresses and writing in english would be a huge problem for them so I won't have the benefit of being able keep in touch with more than a handful.

People don't have home addresses here, only PO boxes. Mail is not delievered at home and indeed there are no signs outside the houses to know what the street address might be. When I asked Patsy about this at the beginning, wondering how she received her bills, she tells me that only the electricity and rent bills are delivered and they are slipped under the door.

In a world of such abundant junk mail I marvel at the fact you may not indeed receive any mail in this country. How easy in some way and how hard to keep in touch from the outside. But with the ease of email I have to say I have lost the art or is it the habit of writing letters.

That's all for now...

Monday December 11th 2006 -
It's raining this morning when I head out to run and it rains for my whole run and is still raining now. Again highly unusual but we're getting used to the unusual. The TV screens are showing golf and the soft ball field and it looks pretty wet out there.

Saad is trying to organise that I go down to Saleen with someone (Mohammed? Saad? Someone else I'm not sure) and ride a buggy on the sand dunes by the sea before I leave. Sounds like fun.
I'd also like to go to the desert now that the weather is so nice and perfect. A journalist yesterday invited me to Syria in his next holidays (June next year) to Damascus. "You will be my guest." he says. Then he also invites me to Muscat in Oman which is where he and his family lives at the moment. I wish I had more time to do this now but perhaps later. Sohaila, Salwa and Sameera are here this morning and are telling me about traditional Qatari culture. Sameera Ibrahim is pure Qatari. Salwa is from Sudan but has been living here for 6 years as her husband is a doctor. Before coming here they were living in Saoudie Arabia and she is happy to be in Qatar where it's much less strict. Sohaila is originally from Iran. Iran is also much stricter then Qatar. Technically it's nearly impossible to become Qatari. But, I've noticed that some of the medalist from Qatar are not Qatari bred. The Men's Marathon winner yesterday looked dangerously like an Ethiopian and then I learn that Qatar has indeed imported athletes to compete for Qatar. Those people have had no problem acquiring Qatari nationality.

Qatar has held these games against all odds because they have money, they imported the manforce to stage the games, they paid all the terrorist groups to stay away and they have even bought the athletes. I suspect some successful athletes are indeed Qatari but this is a small nation with only 200 000 Qataris (for a total of 800 000 population) so it wouldn't be expected to win too many medals compared to nations like China who yesterday had 191 medals already.

Salwa tells me she has five children here and her eldest daughter (16) is in Sudan and wants to study to be a doctor. He second, a son, 15, will go back to Sudan next year to study as an engineer. University in Sudan, Salwa tells me is much better than in Qatar and this is what I've heard too. That university here is too easy and has no standards.

Well that's all for now

Sunday December 10th 2006
It was another busy day at the MPC yesterday. I think some of my volunteers are already feeling that the end is very close. Saad gives me a commemorative plate of Doha 2006 with the 45 flags of the countries represented :..."So that when you go home, you remember Saad." he says. "Saad" I tell him "You don't need to buy me anything. I'll never forget you."

And how could I forget any of this. Sameera Ibrahim, another volunteer who is a year older than me and has 6 children comes back this morning after a day off and says: "I've missed you yesterday" she says.

Well, the games continue and it continues to be constantly busy during the day but I've started writting my final report which is due on the 16th and have been told yesterday that by the 18th we should all be off until we leave. So that is exciting news.

Last night Lorraine tells Kisane and me to leave before 6pm and so we both go and catch a movie a City Centre shopping centre. I want to see the new James Bond movie :Casino Royale but she wants to see a romantic comedy so we see "The Holiday". It's Ok but by the time we leave I feel I've only seen half of the movie as parts have been cut out and the picture and sounds keeps jumping because of it. Any parts which can be seen to be unappropriate have been removed. Mobile phones keep going off as no one seems to shut them off. People are talking together. It's all very interesting but it's nice to go out and do something different and still get back not to late.

There is only a few days to go. Doha is in the race to bid for the summer Olympics of 2016 and this effort with the Asian games and the fantastics sporting venues they have acquired has definately been done with this in mind. They have shown the world already now that they have Olympic class facilities and we are running a multi sport event with 39 sports which exceeds the number of sports at Summer Olympics.

Bye for now

Beach volleyball bikinis shake up Asian Games in Qatar - CNN.com

see this link for the article:
http://www.cnn.com/2006/WORLD/meast/12/02/immodest.beach.ap/index.html

Saturday December 8th 2006

Had another busy day yesterday with many people in the work room. There are more than 2200 Press journalists and photographers here in Doha covering the games with about double that of broadcasters. So there are people in here constantly and we are all surprised at how busy the Work room remains all day and evening until the wee hours of the morning. At other events we've all done the MPC has been less busy after opening ceremony but here it's been constant.

Which was why I was upset to have to worry about my staff changing when we have now a great team, my shifts are worked out and I know who is reliable and who will show up on time etc. But, anyway, I've sorted all that now and have also made peace with Ala and Maryam so all is good.

I read in the paper last night (when I finally got to it) that the rains we've had have broken a 42 year record for total rain in December in Doha and all this by December 7th. Since 1964, wow, that's the year I was born. Seems like a long time ago.

Yesterday the skies had cleared up but I think there were still patches of rain during the day or night. Now most of it seems gone.

Salwa asks me this morning what she can do to lose her stomach as she has had a child a year ago. And here I am in the help desk showing her how to do crunches for her abs and telling her to go walking on the Corniche and get her husband to buy a treadmill for the months when it becomes too hot. And I realise that what is normal and easy for us in the west is not so easy here for women like her. This is why I suggest walking as this is well accepted. Joining a gym is not something Qatari women will do and the temperatures are far too hot to go outside and do anything for most of the year.

That's all for today.
bye for now

This is the transcript from an interview Reginald Gratton, Director of Media Services here in Doha and good friend of mine gave for the ABC (Australia) yesterday I believe.

http://www.abc.net.au/rn/sportsfactor/stories/2006/1804496.htm#transcript

Anne

Friday, December 8th 2006
These photos are from this strange sport I've never seen before called Sepaktakraw which originates from South East Asia. A mix of Volleyball and Soccer in which you can't use your arms or hands and I must say the athletism required is amazing as these photos will demonstrate. So at least if you ever hear of this sport you will know a little about it.

It rained most of the day yesterday. The day started out good for me as the settlement on my unit came through and I officially knew my place in Fremantle, Australia had sold.

But a few things dampened my spirit. By 10:06am there was an accident at Equestrian in the cross country and a 47 year old South Korean rider died instantly when he fell off his horse and broke his neck. The conditions at Equestrian looked quite nasty when I looked at a few of my TVs in the morning. I thought it was bad enough having to walk 20km in the rain but the muddy conditions made the dangerous sport of cross country even more so. The horse fell over the jump and partially on the rider and I believe the horse was also put to sleep. So, a few emergency Press conferences were called and we had to swiftly inform all the press in the venue of this so they could attend the press conference and do their job of reporting. The Korean Chefs of Mission were obviously choked up and one lady could hardly speak. It was very sad indeed.

Then, I had trouble with two Qataris women (Ala and Maryam) who deal with some of the staffing issues. They had the day before come in to tell me I had two new volunteers the next day (yesterday) and that two of my trusted staff were going to be rostered off. I strongly objected saying that there was no way anyone was taking Younes or Nayef off their shifts and that I didn't want any new volunteers. After talking the Gerry (who does the night shift ) this morning she assured me that none of my volunteers would be scheduled off and if we needed to have new volunteers we may try to assign them somewhere else. The volunteer program was not thought out properly. There are all these Qataris who have release letters from work who now want to start working when it's too late to learn the job. After lunch, Abdulqader and Saad inform me that Ala and Maryam have told them at lunch that they have been removed from the roster the next day (today) and not to show up. They are upset because they want to work and by now I'm starting to be angry. So I storm into their office (Ala and Maryam) and tell them in no uncertain terms never to talk to my volunteers without talking to me first and that none of my volunteers were going to be scheduled off. Any new volunteers could be scheduled at night from 11pm to 7am as I need them then. And I left slamming the door behind me especially when they tried to tell me that they were just helping Gerry out who had instructed them to do this. I knew this was a total lie.

Lorraine laughs when I tell her the story. She knows me to always be as cool as a cucumber and that it takes much to see me raise my voice. But I feel this is a continual issue and I can't afford to go along with this stupidity. By the time Gerry gets in at 7pm she has words with Maryam and promisses to talk to Ala in the morning as this was the contrary to what they were told to do. But there is also Soud the Venue manager who is Qatari and has his own ideas and I believe they try to accommodate him at our expense. But such is life and we'll deal with this how we can.

The rain has gone this morning. It's still humid but the grounds will dry out now. And the Games go on.

Thursday December 7th 2006

Well, it's well and truly raining this morning and it was a wet run to start with at least and then it stopped but by the time I was ready for work it was raining again and hard to cross streets with puddles of water everywhere. But here I am and I'm not going anywhere for a long while now.

In the paper the other day there was an article about the opening ceremony and the fact that a few journalists commented that it rained a lot in Doha because it has been overcast for three days then with some rain. Of course the journalist reporting said he didn't bother saying to those journalists that those three overcasts days with some rain where the only days in which it rained all year. But, still today the rain is back and Qataris are smiling as for them rain means good luck. I think of this song from Jacques Brel where he promisses "des perles de pluie venues de pays ou il ne pleut pas" (pearls of rain harvested in country where it never rains) to the woman he loves. Maybe I understand the meaning just a bit more now.

At the moment, in the rain the men's 20 km walk is taking place around the Corniche were I was just earlier this morning.

I've had so many offers from people to show me around, to take me to the desert, to invite me to diner and I'm hoping that in my last few days here I will be able to accept some of those. Saad's brother, Mohammed who I called a few days ago to mention that I felt Saad should rest and who had invited me to diner, has asked that Saad gives me his number. So I call him and promise to meet him for coffee. In the work room the journalists are real gentlemen. I occasionally climb on chairs and tables to change the tags on the TVs if my volunteers cannot attend to this. And each time I find men offering me their hand or arm to get back down eager to help out as if this is not a job for a woman. It's not done in a condescending way either; it's really just that they wish you wouldn't have to do this. Little do they know that at home I ride a motorcycle. Of course this comes from the middle eastern men and possibly even the russian citizens (Ubekistan, and all the other stans) rather than the asians which tend to keep to themselves. One such russian man says to me yesterday: "I don't speak english very well....but my russian (and he looks at me pausing a moment) is very very good." And I'm happy people still have a sense of humor as humor is something which once again transcends languages. I can still laugh with people without being able to have a conversation with them and then it appears the words are not necessary anyway.

And then there is always my lovely volunteers. Everytime any women comes into work or leaves now, they come and we kiss three times as per their custom. Jamal watches me this morning do this with a smile..."you've become an arabic woman" he comments and I smile at his comment. Yesterday, Sameera (my 15 year old) is talking arabic with Abdulqader, Saad and Ahmad as I'm doing some work on the computer. She looks up at me smiling and says: "We just saying how we all love you." And I feel the same way about them.

Wednesday December 6th 2006

At at the Hotel enjoying a morning off. Kisane has offered to check things for me this morning so I could do this and she is off all day tomorrow so I wanted to take advantage of the offer before the weekend (Friday and Saturday) when some of my regular volunteers are off.

So I got up later and left for my run at 5:45am which is when I usually come back. It was lovely to see the sun come up, a big fushia red ball as it gently emerged from the bay. Took my time afterwards, stretched and put a load of washing on, went down for breakfast and then the gym, shower and now I'm in the business centre writing this at my leisure. No need to rush today. What a luxury!

I haven't had breakfast here for probably 10 days or the last time I had a morning off and there are so many more journalists here now. I see their jackets with the country names written on the back: Thailand, Korea, China, Ubekistan and the list goes on. Where is Ubekistan I wonder or even Kazakhstan (spelling probably wrong)? There are so many things we never choose to explore until one day, it's in our face and we start wondering. Just like the little pamphlet I picked up on "La religion de L'Islam" (Islamic Religion). It's now that I am amidst it that I want to understand it, probably because I have met so many Muslim people who have become my friends.

Yesterday was "Volunteer Day" which was a day in which we celebrated the spirit of Volunteering. At 11am all volunteers were told to go to the Press conference room where the DG of Dagoc addressed everyone and officially thanked them for their efforts. I was of course trying to mind the Help Desk on my own while everyone was away and it was fine for those 45 minutes. Then, they started trickling back and what happened once again completely overwhelms me. Ahmad a fairly new volunteer of 21 years of age brings me back a piece of cake on a plate and tells me it's for me. I tell him that the cake is for them but he insists it's for me. Then Abdulqader and Sohyla manage to bring back a stuffed Orry( the mascot) for me which they have all been given one of. They managed to sneak one for me. Mahmoud arrives with a plate full of cake and says : "For you" and again I try to tell them that the celebration is for them but they will not listen and I'm so touched by their kindness and the way they always look out for me. Shadi mentions that Abdulqader was the one making the most fuss out there trying to bring back something for me. Abdulqader has worked with me since November 15th and has only had two days off in a row at my insistence before we got very busy. He has worked everyday before and since. I'll really miss them all.

Shadi comments that students are also that way with teachers (bringing them gifts). And I wonder about that. Have I become a teacher? I've been told so many times that I am a teacher and I always denied the statement saying I had no patience and was more of a doer than a teacher. And yet, I've been a teacher here and I've had plenty of patience and I've really enjoyed it. And it seems I have a team of people who seem to be enjoying their experience. And more than anything else, my concern has always been that they have the "best experience of their lives".

Maybe because my first Olympic was the best experience of my life and most people only get one such experience.

Bye for now

Tuesday December 5th 2006

After three full days of competition China-surprise surprise- leads the medal tally with 69 medals; Japan follows with 46 and South Korea with 40. The rest are quite far away. 4th position is held by Kazakhstan with 14, 5th is Thailand with 8, Mongolia is 6th with 3 and the list goes on. I don't understand yet why Hong Kong is not counted with China as it was given back to China by the UK in 1997. It figures here in 13th position with 4 medals.

The Work Room is busier than we all anticipated at this stage. Big Press agencies are sending journalists to the venues to cover the competition live but for smaller agencies with only one or a couple of journalists, the task of covering all sports is impossible to do from competition venues. The Main Press Centre and the International Broadcast Centre are the only Venues where competition taking place at all venues is available on our screens through the internal TV system. It is therefore possible to stay in the work room and keep an eye on it all and try to report on it all.

I'm going to try to take tomorrow morning off. Kisane will come and set things up here in the Help desk for me and either stay or be available in case she is needed. I can then get a bit more sleep in tomorrow and do my washing and have a leisurely morning.

I see Shelley, a New Zealander, from Transportation on the Corniche this morning. "How did you get through the barricades?" she asks me. The Corniche has been blocked around the plaza where Orry stands since the 1st December. The first day I tried going under the barricades and four security guards ended up running after me. I wondered for a minute if I should give them a run for it and accelerate but I just tried arguing that I was almost there. I also remembered Patsy telling me "Never argue with the police here." even if they weren't the police. I ended up having to go right around the whole place. So since then, I divert around there and run in the street until the area is clear to get back on the Corniche.

Bye for now.

Monday December 4th 2006

And the Games continue. We've been busy in a constant way at the Help Desk with sending many faxes which is over 135 during the day yesterday. And also with everything else we do here like set the 40 plasma screens, two projectors, and five TVs onto the different sport channels. I've made spreadsheets which outline which internal TV channels to put each of the TVs on at every hour. This also implies climbing up to put the labels on the Tv which outline which sport is playing. With sports like Kabaddi , Wushu and Sepaktakraw it's not always obvious to everyone which sport is playing. Spaktakraw is a sport which is a cross between Volleyball and Soccer if that makes any sense. There is a net and the ball must go over the net but the players cannot touch the ball with their hands and arms. Which means it's a tremendously athletic sport. But back to what we do...there are all the technology problems with computers and printers and copiers. And also with connecting to the Wi-fi or the phones etc. And keeping the place clean or tidying up and kicking out staff or host broadcasters or broadcasters who come and use the facilities.

But within all that I've built a strong team of volunteers and my core team are excellent people who now completely understand the process and are keen to help. I couldn't ask for better volunteers and I'll miss them when I go.

It's almost cold this morning when I'm out running and I'm happy I've worn my long sleeve T-shirt when I head off in the morning wind. I can't believe a month ago it was so painfully hot. The Corniche has been cut off in the middle where Orry stands so I need to get onto the road for a short while to get back on the Corniche on the other side. There are much less people these days on the Corniche maybe because of this or maybe it's the cooler conditions and they come later in the day.

That's all for now.

Sunday, December 3rd 2006
We had a busy day yesterday but nothing like the days before. Just more consistent with people faxing throughout the evening. We also had a bomb scare just when I was due to leave. Someone brought a piece of luggage and left it in the Help Desk saying the owner had gone. I had to immediately call security who asked us to evacuate the help desk so they could bring in a dog. It was a bit awkward as we couldn't tell people why we were all taking a break at the same time when they us to fax their articles overseas. But all in all it was resolved by 8pm and I went home and let my volunteers handle the rest of the evening.

I've put more photos of the Opening because I find them amazing. After a day of competition only China has already grabbed 23 medals. They came here with a huge contigent and it was obvious that they would head the medal tally here.

Saad, one of my volunteers who is 21 or 22 has six sisters and 7 brothers and he is the youngest
boy with only one younger sister. He looks tired these days and I ask him if he's getting enough sleep. He says that he isn't because being the youngest boy, he must assist everyone in the family. He tells me that when he gets home, he must go and drive his sister here or there, help his brother Mohammed that night with guests he is having over for diner etc etc and it never stops. I tell Saad that in my culture, the baby of the family is the 'king' and his eyes light up with the idea of this. I ask him to let me talk to his brother. So Saad calls Mohammed. His english is very good and we have a nice conversation. "I tried to come and meet you the other day" Mohammed says "but they wouldn't let me in." and then he asks me how Saad is doing. I tell him that Saad is great but he's very tired and relate to him what Saad has told me. Mohammed laughs. "No, no, he plays video games until late and he doesn't listen to me anyway.'' And then he asks me if I'm free that night to come and have diner with them in the arabic way (eating with fingers). And even if I'm dying to go, I know I'm too tired and tell him I don't have transportation to which he quickly replies:
"Don't worry, I'll send Saad to pick you up." And it's too funny not to laugh.

So here we go for another day of fantastic competition.
Bye for now.

Saturday December 2nd 2006 Well, the Games are officially open now. The
ceremony last night looked impressive on the plasma screens here although I was only looking up now and then but the colors were fantastic. Shadi, a Jordanian Volunteer who has been living here for 6 years and has recently married an American woman tells me that after living here for 6 years, it's really seems incredible to imagine that this amazing ceremony is happening in Doha. This is because Doha has changed so much in the last six years.

The Asian Games Cauldron was lit in a most


impressive fashion when the son of the Emir riding a horse raced all the way up the ramp of the stadium carrying the flame. Rain is not something which is ever expected in Doha but it was raining and so everyone was nervous the horse would slip and it did ever so slightly up the top but all was good.

A journalist who has covered three Olympic games, this morning commented that the ceremony was really at Olympic standard and it certainly was. I didn't really get to watch it and once I left the venue at 8:30pm I just went
home, had a shower and went to bed only to be woken up later for matters at the MPC.

We had a busy busy day yesterday with many faxes to sent. I didn't realise how many journalists would still be faxing and indeed most arab journalists are just writing by hand and faxing as do Indians, Sri lankans and the list goes on. We were short staffed and five fax machines were too little to cope with the demands between 11am and 3pm...and the Games really hadn't started yet.

But with the actual games starting today we may finally get some relief with people going to competition venues and we, at the MPC are certainly looking forward to that. I expect we will still be busy though.

It's still raining today and here everybody seems happy when it rains. It's so rare that they say if you make a wish when it rain, it will come true.

More later.