Anne's blog travel 06-07

I head out last night after dark to find Hang Ngang street (changes names to Hang Dao, Hang Duong, Hang Giay and Dong Xuan every couple of streets)-the street than leads to the Dong Xuan markets- closed to traffic with stalls in the middle of the street all the way to the day market which at night become the night market. I imagine this is something that happens on Friday nights. I'm told later that it also happens on Saturday and Sunday nights. There are so many people that it's really hard to go forward.

This morning when I head out to run I see it has rained and it's cool. The pavement is wet but the rain has stopped. By 11am however once I've once more changed rooms (three times in three nights- but this time the room is bigger and has a window) the sun is out. I haven't seen the sun since I arrived in Hanoi on the 16th. So what a sight it is. The sky however is still gray and the sun is simply filtering through the clouds but it's lovely and warmish. Once I've had Banh Khut (some sticky rice concoction) for breakfast and Jai Saang (green tea) with my favorite lady who conveniently sets herself up just beside the hotel door, I set out for a walk. I haven't done 500 meters that I feel a hand on my shoulder. It's Long who is just selling a lighter to a western woman. She looks at me and says: "He drives a mean bargain." which I'm sure he does although I just told him I didn't smoke. Nor does he. We chat for a while then he tells me he might see me later on when he's around another area he saw me yesterday. It's a small world because indeed later in the day- hours later in a different area- I do see him again.

On the way to Don Xuan Markets a lady offers me Pinnaple pieces. How much? I ask. 15 000 V Dong. I look at her and smile...really? 10 000 she smiles back. "I'll think about it" as I turn around and then she says "5000". I haven't had to say much but I agree to the price even though it's probably still inflated 2-3 times but it's only US$0.30 so I'm not going to bargain down on that. She smiles as she gives me the pinnaple bag. Another lady urges me to buy some Vietnam caps or a fan. I don't want any of it but she puts the fan in my hand and says: "Cheap only 35 000 Dong." I insist I don't want it and she starts bargaining herself down. "Ok 30 000 bottom price." I keep saying no because I don't want it. 25 000 she insists, then 20 000 then she's down to 15 000. Maybe some other time. Later in the day-a couple of hours later-she sees me again somewhere else...puts the fan back in my hands..."10 000" she says. Well there you have it. I still don't want it though.

Later around the lake I get the boys selling postcards trying hard to sell me some. Thankfully a lovely young lady, Mai comes and asks if she can sit and talk to me. She works as an accountant (just starting out) and wants to practice her english. She tells me that many young Vietnamese conscious of the growing demand for English speakers with Vietnam joining the WTO want to improve their english. She tells me she's done many years of english at school but mostly reading and writing and she desperately needs to talk and listen. It's really quite surprising how open they are to just come and talk to someone like me they don't know. She spends all her break hour with me and tell me she comes to the lake around 2-3pm everyday during her break and hopes to find me there again. She also tells me I should hang around for TET (Vietnamese New Year- January 18th) because it's something else. I tell her my visa only allows me to be in Vietnam until the 16th and my ticket is booked. Looks like I'll spend Chinese New Year in Bangkok. However, if I'd known...

Just another day in Hanoi.

Bye for now