Anne's blog travel 06-07

Monday, February 12th 2007


Last night on my way back from the night markets I once again hear my name called out. I always think I must be hearing things but no, I turn to see Huong I'd met just that afternoon. She's just pulled up with her scooter to call out to me. I quickly cross the busy street and she tells me she's on her way to the night markets where she sells in a stall there. I find out she sells hair product and as I need some conditioner I vow to go back and find her. I'd told her that afternoon that I couldn't tell the difference between Shampoo and Conditioner in the shops because I didn't know the name for each. I walk up and down the stalls along this very long street but I cannot find her and give up in the end.


I'm about 30 or so minutes earlier around the lake this morning and it's still very busy. More so perhaps with more classes being held on the East side of the Lake not far from the impressive statue of Ly Thai To (974- 1028) a Vietnamese emperor. As previously arranged, Ton comes to my hotel to pick me up at 8:30am and we set out on his scooter/motorbike (125cc) to find a place to have breakfast. Pho Bo it will be (Beef Noodle soup) in a busy Pho Vietnamese restaurant. I've tasted Pho Ga (chicken Noodle soup) before but I must say that despite everything and my usually vegetarian tendencies the Pho Bo is even nicer. After a stop in a cafe for a Vietnamese coffee, we head out of Hanoi on the motorbike.


First stop, about 40 km south-west of Hanoi is Tay Phuong Pagoda in Ha Tay province. The name means Pagoda of the West and was built in the 8th Century. 76 figurines carved from Jackfruit wood are the pagoda's most well known features but most of these were built in the 18th Century. This is our first fitness test as there are many steps to the top; Ton will have to quit smoking. We visit the pagoda's and the shrines inside lit with candles. Many figurines here look to have Mandarin traits and Chinese rather than Vietnamese features. "Of course" Ton tells me "the Chinese occupied Vietnam for a thousand years". Then later it was the French for about a hundred years and the Japanese for about four months. Seems like everyone wanted a piece of it. We sit up there for a while talking while ladies come and try to sell me all manners of knick knacks. There are no tourists there and indeed no one at all but us and those lady's at that time. Ton tells me that Vietnamese come to the Pagodas to pray about twice a year and just after Tet the place will be full of people.


Later, it's off to Thay Pagoda which is the Master's Pagoda dedicated to Thich Ca Buddha and 18 archat (monks who have attained Nirvana...lucky them). In front of the Pagoda is a small stage (see photo at the top) built on stilts in the middle of the pond where water puppet shows are staged during festivals. The Pagoda's annual festival is held from the fifth to the seventh days of the third lunal month. Inside the Pagoda are again many figurines. One has bronzed figurines and another building has wodden figurines ressembling those of the Thay Phuong Pagoda. Then it's up the steep stairs built in the rock to catch the view and other figurines at the top. From here you can see vast rice paddies in one direction and buildings in another. "When you come back here in ten years Anne, there may not be any agricultural land left.." says Ton and I know he's right. Again we are almost all alone there. A few kids who have just finished school for the TET holidays have climbed up the stairs and laugh as they greet me "Hello".


Back down we have a lunch of Com which is rice and a few dishes (about 4-5) and sit for a while talking about different things. I've heard of corruption in Vietnam and that the last party in power (communist of course) was very corrupt. It was replaced last year by a new president and party (communist again) but it seems life for the common man is not easy while others have all the riches in the world. Yet, I see more hope for a country like Vietnam somehow because people are intelligent here, people have spirit here and the place has not yet been spoilt by development. Communism has slowed this process of course. But I hope that as it happens (and it will) and hopefully increases opportunities and life standards for Vietnamese, that the essence of this country is preserved where other nations have sold their own for the benefit of money.


It's interesting to get on the road out of Hanoi today and see the fields and what happens outside although I haven't gone really far either. On the way back we stop at Silk village where the origin of Vietnamese Silk lies. We stop in one home to see a silk treading machine with wodden patterns determining the layout of the colors. And then it's back to Hanoi arriving with heavy traffic. How the traffic flows in this totally chaotic way...I do not know. In a three lane road you'll often have two cars and about 7-10 scooters. All narrowly missing each other. People riding 2-3-4 on the same scooter, scooters going on the sidewalk when the traffic gets too dense and police even riding like this. And by the time I'm back at the hotel I feel like I need a shower from the dust and a break from the noise.


Bye for now